When Loes suggested this walk, my first thoughts were the same
as yours probably, a slag heap ?
But I had heard of others that had walked here before and thought
why not, it's a fine day and probably the best time to visit this
less than salubrious place.
Workington foreshore on a nice sunny day . . . how different
it all turned out to be !
The river and old harbour area, home to more leisure craft
than commercial vessels nowadays.
This is where the River Derwent, that has it's source at Sprinkling
Tarn and which flows through Keswick, finally meets the sea.
The blue land sheds are next to the modern wet
dock for the port, which can handle up to 12,000 ton vessels.
Not as busy as years back but the port is still
active, with the main imports / exports from Workington Harbour
being as varied as steel, timber, petrolatum
products, perlite, equipment for Sellafield and general cargo.
The building nearest to the yellow boat is the
RNLI Lifeboat House.
We parked at the end of road, close to the harbour
beacon, along with quite a lot of other people.
After a quick look around (and a photo on a
rock) we set off up the grassy slope next to the car park.
The view back down to the docks, with wind farms
and in the distance, the Cumbrian Fells.
- - - o o o - - -
It turns out that the rumours are true,
the whole of the high ground close to the coast at this point
is artificial,
a waste tip from 100 years of heavy industry
which built and grew the town from early in the industrial revolution.
Recent work by Wildlife and environmental organisations
has started to make the bare grassland that covers it a little
more productive.
The "rolling downs" of Workington
with St Bees Head in the distance.
Behind the harbour are the wind farms and the
Iggesund Paper Factory, which makes paper and card for the packaging
trade.
You may have used their products which they
transform from wood pulp into paper and boxes, for perfumes
to whisky and sweets to grocery products.
In recent years they have converted their power
station, capable of producing enough power to supply Carlisle,
to burning wood chip in a biomass plant.
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The world is full of surprises (for me)
as we reach the summit of the hill
and find a crucifix on top of a wall and seat.
It is the location for local pilgrimage
on special occasions in the year.
The cross is also partially adorned at its base
by a number of 'forever' locks
left, presumably, by local romantic couples.
- - - o o o - - -
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There's a fine view from up here today, stretching
across the trading estate and houses all the way to the high
fells.
The long buildings here housed some of the old
steel works factories that supported the town for so many years.
Dylan and Dougal seem to attract people wherever
they go.
These guys were out on a walk from town and
wanted their pictures with the dogs.
Over the fence, marked dangerous cliffs, was
not the sea but a huge quarry.
At some point in time the waste slag that makes up the headland
has been quarried and re-purposed, carried away for use in
road building or landscaping.
Click
here or on the photo above for a slightly
larger version of this picture.
It was easy enough to climb to this point and
too early to return to the car, so we headed down the other
side of the slope.
The area of town below is known as Moss Bay
and a company, Moss Bay Metals still exists to this day.
Looking back at the headland and you can begin
to appreciate just how much material was dumped here over the
centuries.
A second and lower hill gave us a view south
to Harrington Harbour
and of the coast railway that joins Carlisle,
the Cumbrian west coast town and Sellafield, to the main line
at Lancaster.
We've turned now and started our way back.
I walked closer to the edge this time and you
could start to appreciate that the headland geology is certainly
not natural.
- - - o o o - - -
When I got home I spent an enjoyable evening finding
out
a little more about where we have been.
Further up the coast there are other examples of
eroded slag heaps,
this one coal rather than iron, again protected
from sea
by dumped boulders.
Photo: The Black Cliffs of Workington.
(courtesy of Bob Jenkins at Geograph.org.uk)
- - - o o o - - -
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On the section of coast where we are standing
it was molten slag that had been tipped over the centuries,
and what I saw earlier
and thought at first to be a circular sea anchor
for shipping, could well have been a ladle for carrying slag
as in the photo above.
If you are at all technically minded do
come back to both of the above links, as they tell of the history
and reasons behind the headlands.
In there too are tales of how trains dumped
the molten slag and of the rail disaster when one man lost his
life working on the tip.
Back to today's sunny walk and we are at the
Crucifix once again.
On the west coast of Cumbria Scotland is never
far away and today Criffel stands out well, its outline and
fields seen with quite a lot of detail.
A slight diversion on the way back as we head
down the old fence line to the shore.
The poor nature of the soil can be seen . .
. as could an old jetty.
Could it be this was an old harbour wall before
the tip was extended . . . its origins are a mystery at this
point in time.
Out on the end of the present harbour wall is
the light house and harbour lookout.
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It is also
a Workington start point for the cycle coast-to-coast
route. |
Loes climbs the tower
and looks out to sea. |
She descended first and re-joined the dogs on
the ground floor which gave this unusual perspective.
Looking down I noticed an observation
marker on the floor, an observation post without a post !
It gave viewpoint directions and landmarks that
may or may not be seen from here.
Unusually there's a second twenty feet away
on the northern side, with subtley different headers.
The end of the walk and so time for the dogs
to get on board.
Despite his poorly front leg, Dylan is still
quite capable of jumping up . . . just a little help jumping
down is sometimes appreciated.
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Driving
back towards home we pass this domed stone building. |
What its historic purpose
was is unclear as there's no plaque. |
A great walk. . . one that asks as many questions
as it offer answers.
- - - o o o - - -
Billy Bumley house, Workington, Cumbria,
England
Email from Trish Sandwith .
. .
I was born in Workington - grew up to the noise of
the steelworks and could see the slag tipping from
my bedroom window. The domed building is Billy Bumley’s
house.
Thanks Trish . . . that
got me thinking . . . Further research has brought
up the following:
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On the quay side at Workington. Built in the 1800s and used
by a tide watcher. Named after a former workers house,
called Billy on a nearby hill. Courtesy
of Tosh123
I seem to remember there were two of
those places, one bricked up. I think one was a good
bit higher up the shore than the other and that the
one there is the lower of the two. It's a very long
time ago though and I could be quite wrong.
Courtesy
of Edgar Iredale
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My research also found that, by the look of
this picture, the actual Billy Bumley's House
was indeed set higher up on Shore Hills.
The small house I photographed is most likely
the white dot in the extreme left of the picture.
The shape of the two similar domed houses
certainly hints at the idea of them being Harbour
marks for the old port of Workington.
Thumbnail photo and the larger version available
at . . . James
Bently Archive
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