The 'Cockermouth Striders' are out again, under the leadership
of Stan and Frances Leigh.
Their route today took us out on the path alongside Thirlmere
and back under Helvellyn on the path above the aqueduct.
Stan's walks are often full of historical information and today
was no exception.
Parking was by the roadside opposite the turn to Bridge End
Farm, on the A591 just south of High Rigg.
Easter Saturday and parking was also restricted because the
farmer had 'Beet' us to three of the spaces.
- - - o o o - - -
Stan gathers the group, there would be 23 people and one dog
by the time we got underway.
We set off on the forest track around the foot of Great How,
leaving the A591 and the traffic behind.
The path follows the eastern, Stanah side of Great How rather
than the reservoir side.
Initial dampness after early rain quickly gave way to a fine
day, so already time for Loes to adjust her clothing.
The path follows alongside Helvellyn Gill, who's source is
high up under Brown Cove Crags.
The beck is smaller than normal as some of the water has been
diverted into the lake, but more of that later.
We walk the lakeshore, heading south on a path towards the
top of the lakeside woodland, a new path for me which is always
nice.
This area was devastated in the 2015 storms and the earth to
the left is an upturned tree stump not a high bank.
The path splits ahead . . . straight on for the lakeside path.
We however, take the left turn which stays a little high and
heads towards the Dale Head Hotel.
Stan has phoned in advance and has permission for the group
to look in at the garden, maybe even stop for coffee.
The original three story building at the back dates from the
16th Century and is now part of the hotel.
Time for a short break on the terrace in front of Dale
Head Hotel
The hotel kindly offered to provide teas and coffee to those
that wished to be refreshed . . . which was a rather nice surprise.
Our stop here was consequently slightly longer than planned.
- - - o o o - - -
Stan mentioned that The
Hotel overlooks Thirlmere reservoir which was constructed
in the 1890's to supply water to Manchester,
after a major Cholera Epidemic that was caused
by polluted water from supplies within the city.
In 1897 Royal permission was granted by Queen
Victoria to build the reservoir and the aqueduct system that
would take the water 100 miles south.
In 1894 the first water started to flow and
Manchester was taking approximately 50 million gallons a day
in it's heyday.
Nowadays the demand has lessened and a new northern
pipeline also supplies Keswick and the west coast towns and
villages (including mine !).
- - - o o o - - -
Earliest pictures of the area show two smaller
lakes, Leathes Water in the distance and Wythburn Water this
end, separated by a spit of land.
|
|
|
|
An early
Frances Frith picture . . . |
and another, probably
a hand coloured photo. |
|
|
- - - o o o - - -
The two sides of the lake were connected
by a causeway and bridges
which allowed people to cross the valley
to the farms, village and Hall on the Armboth side.
- - - o o o - - -
|
|
|
|
There was local opposition to the reservoir
of course from both the major land-owning families,
the Stranger-Leathes at Dale Head Manor and
the Jacksons of Armboth Hall.
Thomas Stranger-Leathes, then Lord of the Manor
of Legburthwaite and Wythburn, notably said "only over
my dead body will it be sold"
. . . unfortunately for him, he died 3 months
later.
Pressure was high therefore on the owners of
land on the Armboth side and eventually Mary
Osalinski (of the Jackson Family) sold for a relatively
high price.
Consequently in 1877 the entire valley and
large parts of the fells on either side of the two small lakes,
were purchased by the Manchester Corporation.
The Manor house became the operations centre for the project
and afterwards, the summer residence of the Lord Mayor of Manchester
!
It was transferred into private ownership in June 1990 after
which it became a hotel.
Thanks to Dale
Head Hall Archive, Wikipedia
and Stan for the information above.
More details of the major Manchester Aqueduct can be found
here
- - - o o o - - -
Our slightly extended stay was over and we set
off towards Thirlspot and the Swirls car park.
This is the back garden of the hotel where they
are starting the process of developing a market garden to grow
fresh produce for hotel guests.
A welcome sign on the main drive becomes our
leaving sign as we continue our walk.
|
|
|
|
Lovely sunny
views up to Brown Cove Crags on Helvellyn . . . |
. . . and ahead to Fisher
Crag across the lake. |
All the houses and the Hall at Armboth were
demolished prior to the valley being flooded, so no longer exist.
Stan also mentioned that, in her day, Mary Osalinski
also had a bothy or summer house built for her high up on Fisher
Crag.
This still exists and can be visited to this
day.
|
|
|
|
We turn
the corner and come across a rushing cascade of water. |
This is the outflow
of an aqueduct diverting water into the reservoir. |
We gather the group by the falls and enjoy the
spectacle before moving on.
Following the aftermath of Storm Desmond, while
the main road was closed,
a tunnel was built at Swirls for pedestrians
and cyclists to pass safely under the usually busy main road.
Loes and Stan lead the way through, closely
followed by Dougal.
It leads out into the Swirls car park area and
gave a dramatic view of the Brown Cove Crags, now high above
us.
This is where Stan had expected to stop for
lunch . . . so it would be churlish not to agree.
- - - o o o - - -
From the car parking area we could look down
on the other side of the aqueduct and during lunch we were also
were entertained
by the antics of motorists, all struggling to
find the last free bank holiday space in the over-full car park.
|
|
|
|
Water from
Helvellyn Gill joins that from further along the fellside. |
|
The aqueduct captures most of the water than
flows off the western slopes of Helvellyn and The Dodds then
directs it into the reservoir.
This caused the lower part of Helvellyn Gill
to become significantly smaller, which subsequently was found
to ruin the aquatic environment.
Measures have been taken in recent years to
restore some of that flow . . . the sign
above gives more details.
Stan leads off after lunch . . .
The plan is to head through the gate and join
the path above the fell wall and head away to the left.
This will take us back down the valley towards
Stanah.
Looking down on the Helvellyn aqueduct from
this side of the valley.
The path is a lot rougher than those we experienced
before lunch
and it climbs higher up the side of the fell
than most people had perhaps expected.
Look at the number of cars parked at Swirls
and in the other car parks close by.
However, the compensation for the climb was
the excellent views we got looking north towards Skiddaw and
Blencathra.
This slate signpost was in better condition
than the much newer wooden one just a few yards away.
Stan mentioned the existence of an "infinity
pool" higher up on the side of the fell
so Loes, myself and Dougal temporarily detach
ourselves from the group and head up on a rising path.
The path rises steeply towards the middle part
of Fisher Place Gill and the waterfalls.
|
|
|
|
The mountain
stream has cut an impressive gully into the fell side. |
The waterfall flows
directly out of "the infinity pool". |
We did find a blonde swimming in the pool but
it was only Dougal.
The view over the narrow lip, out into infinity,
was only possible if you were yourself swimming in the pool.
There was no easy access to the rocks at the
back from which to take a better photo.
|
|
|
|
Loes seen
across the mountain pool, with another waterfall under
the tree. |
As we walk back down,
the extent of the falls was impressive. |
It seems the group has gathered by the bridge
over the beck . . .
This allowed Stan to take his group photo of
the day. (Many thanks for the use of it here.)
Below us as we continue our walk, was the busy
farmstead of Fisher Place.
- - - o o o - - -
On one more short section of fell path and we reach
Stanah Gill.
This is where we leave the mountain and head down
to the village of Stanah below.
At this point on the fell the beck is still in its
natural state,
but just below it too cascades into the aqueduct
that flows from Ladknott Gill beyond Castle Rock
all the way to the reservoir at Swirls.
- - - o o o - - -
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looking
north with Castle Rock behind the tree . . . |
. . . and south to the
bridge and the start of a small, onward tunnel. |
Stanah Lane as we leave the fell and reach
the roadway.
- - - o o o - - -
At Stanah there were several options on offer.
A direct road walk back to the cars,
a walk along the minor road to Legburthwaite,
or possibly even a stop at The Lodge in the Vale
for refreshments for those that wanted.
Loes and I declined as we had to get back
to collect Dylan from a neighbour in Loweswater.
The walk (with all the nice stops) had taken longer
than had originally been planned.
- - - o o o - - -
|
|
|
|
We said our thanks to Stan for a great walk,
slightly tougher underfoot than expected, but nevertheless
very enjoyable.
We headed back to the car and a much fuller
parking area than we had left some five hours earlier.
- - - o o o - - -