Sometime back I said to Chris Howarth to give me a shout when
he walks his last Wainwrights.
That day has come and so it just remained for him to decide
a route.
Chris had his last two of his "Wainwright 214 fells"
to climb, Green Crag and Hard Knott, but he would also like
to see the Eskdale Needle in passing
so we better set off and get the whole thing up sewn up !
It's going to be a great day weather wise.
This was the view as we drove over to the west
coast main road. In the distance the wind farms
of the Solway and the Scottish Hills.
Chris was looking forward to clear views of
the Scafells from his 'final' top later in the day.
Turning at Gosforth on the coast road, we were
soon into Eskdale, famous for its narrow gauge railway.
We parked the car at Jubilee Bridge at the foot
of Hard Knott Pass.
This would give us direct access to the old peat track up towards
Green Crag and the minimum of road walking at the end of the
day.
Very few people about, so the camera was propped on a rock
to take the first walking picture of the day.
Into the shade of the Hardknott Gill's small
ravine, crossed by the old pack horse bridge.
Its antiquity suggests it was a Victorian Jubilee
when the bridge was built (or rebuilt).
A good track climbs steadily up in the direction
of Kepple Crag.
We'll not climb that one as Green Crag is behind
and to the left of the gap next to it.
Mid morning views over the summer bracken that
chokes parts of Eskdale.
Below is the strangely names Wha House.
No doubt there's a story waiting to be told about that name.
In the shelter of the north facing slope the
moisture is thick on the grass and on several fine mushrooms.
Don't worry . . . they were off to the side
so there was mush-room to pass without accidentally knocking
them over !
As we climbed, the view back became more and
more extensive.
Zooming in on Scafell and Slightside, just a
wisp of cloud over the tops.
Broad Crag and Ill Crag, with the lower rock
summit of Pen in front of the darker cliff.
The foreground will be something like High Scarth
Crag on the way to Sampson's Stones.
The cloud top again confuses the scene, but
that looks like Crinkle Crags with Cold Pike away to the right.
No problem with this one, its Border End sitting
above the Roman Fort.
The path from the horizontal notch downward
would be our return route.
We're making good progress, with the gate at
the top of the first climb now reached.
A stile to cross over the fence and head for
our first summit of the day,
Chris's 213 . . . Green Crag.
There's a series of lesser summits along the
way, all Birkett's if you are into that completing that list.
The dogs sat waiting on the skyline for us to
make our way through the rather featureless paths of the heather
covered slopes.
Nice photo I thought, but the dogs were distracted
at the critical moment.
The fox hounds were out, combing the fellside
for a trail of scent (hopefully artificial not natural).
They were not interested in other dogs or sheep,
just bounding along on their own mission.
Dow Crag passed to our right
and ahead now was Green Crag with its distinctive
final steep climb.
Dylan took advantage of a peaty pool to cool
down, as it was already getting warm.
We could just make out an island out in the
Irish Sea
as BT welcomed me to "mobile roaming"
courtesy of the Isle of Man phone service.
Green Crag under the belt, the sunglasses heavily
darkened in the bright light of the day.
Fancy checking out the view ?
Click
here or on the photo above for a 360
degree annotated panorama.
Time for a quick refreshment stop.
Our next target was not the pointed one
ahead but Hard Knott, the darker fell behind.
The easiest way to reach it would be to climb
up and over Harter Fell along the way.
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Crossing the boggy section between the two fells
was a matter of twisting and turning
and finding the sheep tracks and paths.
However we were safely over, dry shod
and had the prospect of the next climb ahead.
The direct path up Harter from the
valley had already started its ascent
but we found the one that connects these two fells
which made navigation easier.
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The edge of the forestry plantation defined
the route up
and as we climbed we could look back at the
many summits that made up the ridge leading to Green Crag.
A fine boulder on the way up gained the name
of "The Elephant Rock".
[ Perhaps I could make a "trunk call"
via the Isle of Man service from here ? ]
Climbing Harter Fell, but the haze of the day
was starting to hide the detail out to sea.
In the dip below the summit of Harter, looking back at Devoke
Water.
The trig point here is set on the spur just below the summit
. . . an equally good view and an easier site to build it.
The summit rock was a bit of a scramble to reach.
We had met the (other) gentleman in blue near Green Crag
and he caught up with us again here.
Harter would be a good place to stop for a bit of lunch .
. . the views today were spectacular,
then afterwards we need to make our way across the undulating
ground to the left of the dark green forestry.
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I just like
the juxtaposition of three sheep and the white house. |
The house at Cockley
Beck in the Duddon / Wrynose Valley. |
In the early days of my walking there was a
forest the other side of the fence, so everything looks different.
I hear there's a plan to re-plant the Duddon
woodlands once again, so it will change again over time.
At the end of the connecting ridge we hit the
tarmac, as the road completes its steep climb of Hard Knott
Pass.
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This is a famous part of the Fred Whitton
round the Lakes cycle event.
An old spray painted message must have encouraged competitors
as they completed the difficult climb.
Hold your cursor over the picture
to read the original graffiti
(over sprayed as if new).
Fortunately it will fade further over time
unless someone adds to it during next year's Fred Whitton.
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At the top of the road pass is a large cairn,
which signifies where we turn to start the ascent
of our final summit of the day.
Hard Knott summit ahead . . . but which one
is it was the question ?
Look for the highest one, furthest away with the biggest pile
of stones !
Congratulations Chris . . . 214 completed
. . . the final Wainwright in the seven book series climbed
on such a lovely summers day.
Completing such an achievement deserved a celebration
and I found a couple of wine glasses and something
bubbly to fill them with, to mark the occasion.
The last photo was taken by another couple,
Mark and Linder Winder (from Egremont if I remember correctly)
who seemed to appear just as the cork went 'pop'
and so were able to join in on Chris's celebration.
[ Hopefully they will see their own image here
on the site if they are still checking it after the slight delay
in publication.]
Today we had the perfect views across to the
Scafells that Chris wanted . . . a real highlight to his many
years of fell walking.
Click here
or on the photo above for the 360
degree annotated panorama that we enjoyed today.
The wine bottles emptied of the last bubble,
it was time to be moving on,
but there was one last viewpoint Chris wanted
to visit.
It doesn't feature in a lot of books but there
on Wainwright's Hardknott page 5 was the Eskdale Needle.
We drop down on the western side, but the book
mentions "it is elusive when sought from above".
It's down there somewhere !
Even close up it doesn't stand out as a feature.
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As you round the lower part of the cliff
the dramatic rock tower attains its
full glory.
Welcome to the Eskdale Needle !
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Having complete the 214, the needle gave me
the title of today's report . . . "sewing them all up".
It is well worth a visit if you are up here
on Eskdale fells.
Once again views of the Scafells, looking back
through the gap.
All three targets for the day achieved.
Now it just remains to head back down to the
car.
Don't think the walk is over here . . . there's
plenty of path finding to do through the sloping, rocky terrain,
but you do have a magnificent backdrop to look
back on if you care to stop and look around.
Over that level notch in the lower slopes of
Border End
and below we get our first sight of the Roman
Fort.
Two sentinels guard the gateway.
Inside the remains of the old buildings are
well preserved
due to the lack of pillaging of the stone for
use in buildings elsewhere . . . there are just no houses up
here that needed building stone.
The granary and commandants houses hint at the
importance of forts in Roman Times.
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The fort was part of the southern defence route
from Ravenglass harbour in the west
to the trade routes that pass north south
through Kendal and Windermere.
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The last part of the descent follows the road
back down to the parking at Jubilee Bridge.
Welcome respite after a long, fairly rough walk
on a hot day.
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We had planned to meet up with Loes and Linda
in the Woolpack Inn at the end of the afternoon
but Chris and I were about an hour or so behind
schedule so the rendezvous never happened.
However we were able to meet up for a meal in
the evening at the Kirkstile Inn to celebrate a great day on
the fells.