I had the opportunity to "Walk the Morecambe Bay Sands"
on May 7th this year, something I've wanted to do for such a
long time.
When the Friends
of the Lake District announced that they were organising
a trip, I signed up to take part.
It was classed as a Sponsored Walk, so along the way we were
encouraged to raise money for this good cause.
Morning mist as I woke early in Loweswater .
. . being up this early is not exactly a frequent event for
me !
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Morecambe Bay is on the diagonally
opposite side of the Lakes
to Loweswater, so an hour and a half
journey was in prospect.
I checked the forecast in order to
get an idea of what to wear.
The Grange over Sands forecast suggested
a cloudy day
so an extra layer was packed.
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Loes and I set off over Whinlatter, where we
witness a partial cloud inversion, or maybe it was just low
cloud over the town.
Loes had 'Walked the Sands' a few years back
but would accompany myself and the dogs today and be in charge
of transport,
well at least get my car from the start point
to the end point, so that we could get home again easily.
As we drove into Arnside at 9am the forecasted
cloudy skies looked decidedly blue.
The meeting point for the walk was on the promenade
at Arnside.
Loes would accompany myself and the dogs on
the start of the walk, but would then double back and meet me
after the crossing.
In the mean time she had friends living in Grange,
on whom she planned to call for a chat while she waited.
I signed on at the Friends' tent ready for the
walk. The man in the hat and yellow top was
Michael Wilson, the Queen's Guide to the Sands.
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Safe passage over the estuary was the originally
the responsibility of the Priories of Cartmel (for the River
Kent) and the Priory of Conishead
for the Ullverston crossing (the River Leven).
Following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII,
a local Charity was set up
by the Duchy of Lancaster to ensure a guide
was always on hand for these dangerous crossings of Morcambe
Bay.
From 1963 to 2019 that guide was Cedric
Robinson MBE who had held the position for over 50 years
and who was really responsible for the creation
of the 'walk' as a recreational event.
That's where we're heading . . . Grange over
Sands, some three and a quarter miles away across the estuary.
You can't walk directly there, due to the deep
river channel and the chance of quicksands, so our walk would
be nearly double that length today.
It took a while for everyone to arrive,
so we gathered on the old pier at Arnside and
enjoyed a drink from the local cafe while we waited.
The pier was built to moor up larger boats that
were used for coastal trading in the olden days.
It was originally paid for by the railway company
as the 'new' railway viaduct had blocked access to the old wharf
up river towards Milnthorpe.
The viaduct carries the West Coast Line from
Lancaster via Sellafield, St Bees and on towards Carlisle.
There would no doubt be walkers on that train
who would have parked their vehicles at the far end of the walk.
With their arrival the walking group would be
complete and we would be ready to go.
The tide was still falling as we set off on
the walk.
The first instruction was for everyone on the
walk to gather at the far end of the promenade,
which would neatly split the walkers from other
visitors to Arnside.
The Queen's Guide is now Michael Wilson, who
has taken over the responsibility after the recent death of
Cedric Robinson.
Like Cedric, Michael is also a Flookburgh Fisherman,
well versed with the tidal waters of the estuary.
He would give us an introduction to the walk
and a few basic pointers on what to do along the way.
Loes insisted on a photo of myself at the start
of the walk
( just in case I got lost along the way ?? )
Team talk done it was time to be on the move
. . . "Tide and time wait for no man" as they say.
First we must walk down river to the end of
the headland.
We passed the coastguard building along the
way.
The coastguard are responsible to sound the
siren on a fast rising tide to warn of the arrival of a tidal
bore at the village.
The siren is sounded approximately 15 to 20
minutes before the water is expected to arrive, as the bore
can be up to a foot high
and so water levels can change rapidly and be
a problem for people working or playing in the river.
We were joined today by Michael's partner Joanne,
who was riding Cedric's own horse.
She had a fellow rider on the piebald horse
and it turned out that this was the first 'crossing' that the
new horse had undertaken.
Together they would stay with the group for
the whole journey.
Plenty of folk were taking pictures . . . not
just me !
The group spreads out as we walk down the coast,
past the house at New Barns.
On this section of the walk the problem was
not water but the slippery nature of the muddy rocks and pebbles
that we had to occasionally cross.
Loes would turn around shortly and head back
to the car, leaving me to walk on with the dogs.
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Sadly this 'walker'
who set off across the sands
never manage to make it
to its destination.
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The long line of walkers, casual estimates suggested
300 to 400 people,
set out across the estuary from relative safety
of Blackstone Point.
If you want to count them then click on the
link and have a go yourself.
Click
here or on the photo above for a
larger version of this picture
The safe route has been marked out in advance
by the guide using traditional twigs stuck in the sand.
With this number of walkers, we stop occasionally
to re-group.
The walk is also accompanied by a fisherman's
tractor . . . for rescue and insurance purposes should anyone
become unwell on the walk.
Our Guide has several helpers with him today,
all in yellow Sands Trust t-shirts.
Off again towards the main river crossing.
Along the way I actually met several friends
from the Loweswater area who were also doing the walk.
First photo of (the backs) of Caroline and Richard.
The walk heads out on the sands . . . in the
direction of the Heysham Power Station ten miles away across
Morecambe Bay.
No . . . we weren't going to walk that far !
In mid bay we became aware of some other people
on the opposite bank.
These were also marshals for the walk who had
crossed earlier to check the sands.
Time for another stop to re-group.
Our group of Loweswater and Lorton friends,
drawn together today by the same walk.
Richard and Caroline on the left, their friends,
Mike and Pip from Grange over Sands (centre) and Pam and her
husband Mike, to the right.
It was suggested I might like to be in the picture
too, so cameras were swapped and Pippa took the photo.
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Once everyone was together, instruction was
given and the group moved off again . . . this time into the
river.
Being low tide the water wasn't too high but
there was an appreciable current.
It would only get up to knee-high mid channel
today as the river was quite wide and therefore shallower at
this point.
Mid channel the conversation level has risen
with excitement
and the sound of quite so many legs splashing
through the water at the same time will be an endearing memory.
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The larger
dogs were fine . . . |
. . . but smaller ones
sometimes had to be helped across. |
There were six golden retrievers on the walk
today and it was the river crossing that really excited them.
They had great fun splashing around and chasing
each other as we all walked through the water.
Getting shallower now as we approach the western
bank of the River Kent.
We made it across . . . but by no means dry-shod
. . . but the crossing was done as we gathered on the slightly
elevated sand bank on the opposite side.
The last of the walkers crossed the river section
. . .
. . . and then peace descended on the river
once again . . . and no-one was left stuck in the middle !
There now just remained the walk back up the
other side of the River Kent to our destination . . . Grange
over Sands.
The goldies had so much fun together on the
crossing that I thought a picture of them all together might
be a nice idea.
Getting six excited dogs to all sit for a photo
was easier said than done.
But being retrievers it was just about possible,
even if they didn't all look at the camera at the same time.
In no particular order . . . Dylan, Dougal,
Meg, Inca, Maggie and Luna.
Owners Chris and Jane completed the picture.
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More wherries marking the safe passage
as we gradually get closer to Grange.
This particular marker held a pair of sandals
which had presumably been dropped
on this or an earlier crossing.
When the owner reaches the other side
they may have a problem walking the promenade
as there was no chance to go back and collect them.
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Michael checks the time, as he chats to one of the Friends'
staff, Stuart Clayton, who also walked the sands.
The main group arrive safely on the western bank of the river.
Time to wash any sand from your shoes and take to the grass
that lines the edge of the estuary.
Still a short way to go, but it is plain sailing now.
Just pay attention and don't fall in the mud at the last
minute . . . that includes you, the dogs.
We reach the other side, where the 'Friends of the Lake District'
officials met us and offered us completer's certificates.
In the envelope too was information about how the sponsorship
money raised today would be used in the future.
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The walk was now complete but we continued the short distance
along the prom towards the centre of Grange.
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Signs on the walkway gave an idea
of the view visitors could see. |
I've superimposed the blue dots
on, it based on my Gps track. |
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What was very interesting was that our route and in particular
the river crossing, bore no resemblance to the Ordnance Survey
map of the channel.
Apparently several years back the deep water was much closer
to Grange, which goes to show how important a local guide
is for such a journey.
The sands of Grange over Sands are now further out in the
bay, as slow moving water has allowed marsh grass to grow
close to shore.
The extent of the grass is also changing, so maybe the channel
will move again and the sand reach the sea wall once more
at some point in the future.
The building you see in the photo is the Grange Lido.
In its heyday it was the place to come and swim and spend
a day with friends.
Sadly now it has closed and is a shadow of its former self.
It featured in the recent series of 'The Bay' drama on television
if you think it looks familiar.
However help is on the way and there are plans to refurbish
the site and bring it back into use.
Money has been raised locally and the builders are starting
to drain the pool ready for its refurbishment and re-opening
in the not too distant future.
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Signboards
on the promenade give us local information . . . |
. . . including plans
for the 'new' lido. |
I'm meeting Loes here in Grange so this is as
far as I go today.
Time to cross the railway bridge and meet her
on the other side.
Physically the highest point of the walk . .
. as I cross the bridge and look down on the Bay and the old
lido.
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A local street pays homage to the
previous Queen's Guide to the Sands. |
All this walking is hungry work, so
Loes stop and find some lunch. |
May I recommend the 'Clare House Sandwiches'
and a pot of tea for two.
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We walk up into town to Loes' friends Hilary
and Paul's house where the car was parked.
They have a fine view of Morecambe Bay and the
River Kent estuary from their front window and actually saw
us crossing the sands today.
Loes's photo of the large group of walkers on
the last part of the crossing, before we reached the end of
this classic walk.
Should you wish to do the walk, the Guides are planning about
nineteen crossings over the summer of 2022
including fundraising walks for the Save
Grange Lido organisation and other charities.
Please contact the Sands
Trust yourself for the latest information about the walks
and how to join them.
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