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" Laudable Lodore "
Date & start time: Saturday 4th October 2014, midday start. Location of Start : The Kettlewell NT car park, Derwent Water, Cumbria, Uk ( NY 267 195 ) Places visited : Lodore, Hogs Earth, Watendlath Cafe and back via High Lodore. Walk details : 7.8 mls, 975 feet of ascent, 5 hour 25 mins. Highest point : Watendlath, 860 ft - 264m Walked with : Ann and our dogs, Harry and Dylan. Weather : Raining overnight and showers to start, but clearing nicely after midday.
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Dictionary definition . . .
Laudable . . . an
adjective . . . deserving praise and commendation. Synonyms: praiseworthy, commendable, admirable, meritorious, worthy, deserving, creditable, worthy of admiration, estimable, of note, noteworthy, exemplary, reputable, honourable, excellent, sterling; hence the word ... applaudable. - - - o o o - - - Most of September's missing rain fell yesterday. When Neil suggested going for a walk a visit one of the famous Lakes waterfalls it seemed an obvious choice. It turned out to be a brilliant day in many respects. We met him at Kettlewell car park on the shores of Derwent water, just a few miles out of Keswick. [ Free to National Trust members but it's not very large, so late arrivals may need to park in Great Wood further up the road.] A quick look at the lake while we prepared for the walk. A small group of canoeists had just arrived. They were enjoying a trip with Steve of Chase Adventure one of our local outdoor adventure companies.
On cue, as per the forecast, the sun came out and the woodland walk alongside the road was a delight. The path naturally heads towards the falls. We follow the roar of the water and meet the river as it passes the Lodore Hotel.
Round the corner we are greeted with the real thing . . . the Lodore Falls in full spate. A roaring mass of water cascading down from on high . . . a sight which so impressed Robert Southey, one of the classic Lakeland poets, that he wrote a famous poem about it. It was a sight that impressed us equally today . . . as the water roared so loud it made conversation difficult.
A conveniently placed seat meant we could relax and take in the view a little while longer. Recall if you can the poem "The Cataract of Lodore" by Robert Southey (1774–1843) [ If not there's a link at the bottom of the page . . . it is worth reading.]
We take the path up through the woods which climbs to the left of the waterfalls. - - - o o o - - - The path climbs away to the right as the direct climb alongside the falls is totally inaccessible. From a gap in the canopy (posh or what) we get a view out over Derwent Water as the Keswick Launch approaches the Lodore jetty. A smart turn brought the boat alongside the pier. Last week the water was so low they were not able to use the jetty due to the shallow water. What a difference a few wet days can make. Below us the Lodore Hotel and the view over to Catbells. Ahead of us, on our walk, was the wonderfully named Hogs Earth, a region of deciduous woodland above the main falls.
A few zig-zags later and we reach the river again. There's no hint of the turmoil lower down for this gently flowing river.
We are now entering the main Watendlath Valley, a classic 'U' shaped glacial hanging valley. The humid conditions over the millennia has allowed trees to grow and the outline of the valley is therefore hidden. Current climate has allowed these pristine dark fungi to grow. After a short, sharp shower, the sun bursts through and is reflected in the turmoil of the water. Level ground now and we leave the woods and find a footbridge.
Neil says that there's no rush and we have time to extend the walk . . . so there's no contest. Watendlath here we come. Just as we had never seen the Lodore Falls before, we had never walked the Watendlath valley path either. For the first time in fourteen years, or should it be forty years, we head head off, following the path upstream. Quite a bit of work has been done on this path over the years. Close to the river, there are signs of recent floods covering the path in the last few days. A board-walk crosses a particularly marshy section where a small tributary enters the river from the slopes of Ether Knott, high up on the right. The water rushes around the bend, cascading over the boulders as it flies past. - - - o o o - - - Contrast this to the picture just a week or so ago . . . courtesy of Maggie Allen's Picassa web photos - - - o o o - - - Watendlath is famous for its lake . . . or more correctly Watendlath Tarn. Holding back the water is a band of high ground of hard rock that didn't succumb to the glaciers. Our walk involves a slight uphill climb in order to reach the village. The view from on high . . . looking back down the valley from the slightly higher ground before the village.
Time to explore while we let our lunch settle. This waterfall is about fifteen feet high, if not more. Hold your cursor over the right hand picture to stop time, if only for an instant. It seems my arrival back at the lunchtime rock has been anticipated !
The bridge at Watendlath . . . with the tarn beyond.
An advertising slogan could have promised . . . " music, refreshments, entertainment . . . a knock-out sort of place "
They were so big that if they dropped on your head they would be a real knock-out ! - - - o o o - - - The local bird life was a real joy to watch . . . here a hungry chaffinch. . . . and a greenfinch high in the apple tree awaits his turn at the crumbs.
We reverse our route, the sky lower in the sky, the shadows spreading further across the valley floor. Back to the bend where Maggie took her picture of the Yew tree last week.
Neil and I check out his new Garmin Gps . . . for information rather than for navigation. We take the left hand path of the three on option and head down towards High Lodore. Following the river down the slope gets steeper and the river begins its headlong race to the main Derwent Valley floor some 600 feet below. The first of the many cascades. Here the river boils as it crashes over a rock in the middle of the river bed.
Looking carefully you may be able to see the weir and the square outline presumably a take-of point, the map calls it a sluice. There's no way to follow the water down and we head off left for High Lodore.
A steep descent through the trees and we meet up with the main road close to the Borrowdale Hotel. The High Lodore (Shepherds Crag) Cafe If we had not dined at Watendlath we could have stopped here for a cuppa. Soon the "Round the Lake path" joins the road after crossing the Chinese Bridge. The recent rain has caused river levels to rise and there's now plenty of flooded marsh land alongside the river. To avoid more road walking than necessary we diverted on to the footpath behind the hotel and re-crossed the river below the main falls. The roar of the water from the hidden falls was as evident now as it had been earlier. A walk back along the woodland path we started out on and we were back at the car. It had been an amazing and very enjoyable 5 hour walk where both Neil and ourselves covered new ground, despite walking in the Lakes for all these years. - - - o o o - - - |
Technical note: Pictures taken with either Ann's Canon Sureshot SX220, or my Nikon P520 digital camera. Resized in Photoshop, and built up on a Dreamweaver web builder. This site best viewed with . . .a sense of awe and a good poetry book. Go to Top . . . © RmH . . . Email me here Previous walk - 2nd October 2014 - Reflections of Angler's Crag A previous time up here - 10th Nov 2007 Great Crag and Grange Fell Click here for a link to Robert Southey's famous poem 'The Cataract at Lodore' Next walk - 6th October 2014 - Low Fell Backwards with Finlay
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