An invitation to join a different walking group today . . . the
Cockermouth Striders.
The group was originally based around a King's Church Men's walking
group, but over time has evolved to become a mixed group of people.
Its leader Stan Leigh and his wife Frances, now organise more
local and historical walks, of which today's is a perfect example.

New territory for me as Loes and I drive over to Penrith.
The meeting point is the Millennium Stone just south of Eamont
Bridge on the A6 between Penrith and Lowther.

The group numbers nineteen today including Frances,
with Loes and Stan on the right.
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Stan has a justified reputation for finding interesting
walks
and then researching the background,
so as to offer interesting insights
into the places we will pass today.
This walk is more historic than extensive,
more gentle undulations rather than steep ascents,
but it reaches back over time to the Neolithic
the Romans, the Middle Ages,
and even has a nice cup of tea at a modern cafe
in a place visited by both Winston Churchill and
ourselves !
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Our first objective . . .
is just a stone's throw from where we've parked.

Mayburgh
Henge is thought to have been an important centre
of a Neolithic community that lived in this area
just south of Penrith.
The site is bounded by two major rivers that would
have given protection
to the people that lived and worked in the area.
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It has an impressive circular bank of river
washed stone . . .

. . . that forms a great arena of level ground
inside its walls.
It was thought to be a meeting place and 'English
Heritage' even suggests a sporting use as well as a ceremonial
venue.
It has one remaining standing stone of four
that were thought to grace the central grassy area.

As the henge was very close to where we parked,
the walk properly started beyond with a short walk in a northerly
direction,
alongside the motorway and towards the river.
The millstone ahead hints at the presence of old water mills
in this area.

The houses on 'North Bank' have lovely riverside
gardens but also a certain amount of flood protection in the
form of walls and banks.
This side of the river was an area known as
Bleach Green, implying a history of bleaching cloth after weaving
in local clothing mills.

We are quickly across to Eamont Bridge where
the old A6 road to Scotland (or to England if you're Scottish)
crosses the river.

It was one of the the main crossing point of
the river
and carried people, trade and warring Scottish
and English Armies north and south over recent centuries.

The historic mills on the river include this
property. The renovated house is much changed but the
garden wall looks really old.
It was obviously not designed with flood prevention
in mind . . . perhaps these extremes of climate are a more modern
thing ?
(Answer as a PhD thesis in your own time please.)

Certainly a recent flood, probably Storm Desmond
in 2015, may have seen the demise of this old footbridge.
The current map shows a footbridge but the footings
for the bridge on the opposite bank are no longer visible.

The walk now follows the river's northern bank
across the extensive farm fields of Carltonhall Park.
The old Carlton Hall and surrounding buildings
are now part of the Cumbrian Police Headquarters.
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Curved river
banks and recent erosion further downstream. |
We also pass debris
strewn across the field from more recent floods. |

Loes and Stan chat as we walk on towards another
old mill site, home now to a relatively newly build home.

The riverside garden had an interesting feature
. . . an (empty) open air swimming pool.
The water on the other side of the green bank
to the right, is the River Lowther which joins the River Eamont
just beyond this point.

Another new build has a fantastic view across
the river to Brougham Castle.

Loes looks over the wall of Castle Bridge at
the castle and its surrounding area, which includes signs of
the old fortifications.
The bridge was also damaged in the 2015 floods
and was shut for nearly a year as repairs were undertaken.
The new stone in this and the next photo give
an indication as to the extent of the damage caused by the water.

Looking over the repaired parapet at Brougham
Castle
Like Eamont Bridge and the town of Penrith,
this castle and bridge were sited on strategic north / south
river crossing points.

The area on the opposite side of the castle
from the river also has major man-made earthworks.
These are the vallum and ditches that surrounded
the site of the old Roman Fort of Brocavum.
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A modern house next to the farm by the castle
proudly advertises the historic name
on the walls of their driveway.
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Brougham
Castle was one of the historic buildings owned and maintained
by Lady Ann Clifford, Countess of Dorset.
She was born at Skipton Castle in 1590 and was the only surviving
child of George Clifford, the 3rd Earl of Cumberland.

Stan now led us briefly alongside the modern A66 road that
forms a major crossing point of the northern section of the
Pennine Hills.
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Don't panic, we're not going to walk the hard shoulder
!
We follow through a gate on the left onto a permissive
pathway.

We're going to visit "The
Countess' Pillar"
at the far end of the old road through the trees.
You can tell it used to be the main road
by the cats-eyes in the tarmac !
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When travelling west along the A66 I've often noticed this
pillar up on the bank alongside the road.
Theses two photos were taken on a separate occasion as I
was passing by car (someone else was driving !).

The pillar stands next to the old road which followed a route
up and over the elevated ground.
The new A66 takes a lower path through a road cutting alongside.

However as we were walking we were are able
to stop and admire the pillar close up.
It was erected by Lady Ann in memory of her
Dowager mother Margaret, at a point where they parted company
in 1616.
She was particularly close to her mother during
her life, but Margaret died soon after their parting at that
time.
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She was a great support
while Lady Ann fought for and eventually rightfully
gained
her father's inheritance, first given to an uncle
because Lady Ann was a female child of the Duke.

The four decorative sides of the pillar
have heraldic Coats of Arms and sun dials.
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They also tell of the pillar's history
and of the stone alongside
upon which was traditionally left gifts for the poor.

The wrought iron fence now precludes access
to pick up or lay such gifts nowadays.
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We re-traced our step, then headed past the Roman Fort once
more, on the road to Brougham Hall.

The old roadside finger post dates from before the motorway,
when this was the normal route from the A66
to Pooley Bridge, Ullswater and Ambleside in one direction
and Clifton, Lowther Castle and Shap in the other.

Walking the route of an old Roman road we approached Camelot
. . . no actually it was the impressive walls of Brougham Hall
Dubbed by the Victorians as 'the Windsor of the North' it has
been the site of a fortified home since 1307.
The site reached its heyday in between the 1830's and the 1900's.
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The impressive gateway
entrance . . . |
. . . and the famous door knocker
seen on the old door. |

Loes stoops slightly to enter the grounds via a more modern
but still very old doorway.
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The sign talks of the Roman Road and this 'new' gateway
facing it.
The gateway has been dated to the sixteenth century
and still has the original old wooden doors, nails
and fixings
from that time.
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The windows and ornate carvings of the guard house.
I've always pronounced Brougham as "bruff-ham" because
the town of Brough further along the A66.

I learn today that local tradition is to pronounce this as
"Broom".
The door alongside the Guardhouse proves the more locally correct
pronunciation.

Inside The Hall is a delightful grassed central court which
is now home to a cafe and craft shops.
Brougham Hall
is still privately owned and was only rescued from demolition
as recently as 1986.

We stop for our lunch outside in the sunshine.

The restoration is still "work in progress"
but is the largest private property restoration in the North
of England.
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Grace Forge is an active
workshop within the grounds. |
One of the buildings yet to be restored
is The Lord Chancellor's Den. |

This small three story tower still has a lot of work yet to
be done.

Dougal and Dylan take Loes up onto the parapet for a view from
the walls.

The plaque commemorates the last battle on English Soil, which
took part in the fields below in 1795
Jacobite Rebellion
which became known as the Skirmish of Clifton Moor where twelve
Jacobites and fourteen Duke of Cumberland's men died.

The fields of Clifton Moor.

Brougham Hall saw wartime service and this included receiving
a visit from Winston Churchill
who came her to discuss the war effort and top secret projects
at that time.
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Before we left
two of my companions also climbed
the gatehouse parapets
and stood by the flagpole
for a photo.
"Broom" Hall certainly has enough on offer
to warrant another visit
at some point in the future.
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Outside the walls of the main hall is a rather underused St
Wilfrid's Church
This was built on the site of an earlier chapel, by Lady Anne
Clifford when she inherited the estate.

The afternoon weather has cleared beautifully
offering views of the Cross Fell on Pennines that Stan had
promised us at the start of the walk.
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We walked the road across
Clifton Moor . . . |
. . . and reached the River Lowther
Bridge on the A6. |
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Our route then took is north once again
for a short road walk alongside the river
till we reached the houses at Eamont Bridge.
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Here we had a quick visit to Arthur's Round
Table, another English Heritage site.

However the information board tells us that
the site's history owes more to the adjacent Mayburgh Henge
and its Neolithic residents
than to King Arthur, who dates from many centuries
later. The two ancient sites are illustrated here
in the same picture
even though our road back to our cars at the
start of our walk now divides the land between them.
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Thanks to Stan and Frances for an interesting
and informative day out in this area within fighting distance
of Penrith.