The Ratti Railway was closed for winter maintenance but that
doesn't stop us enjoying an extended circular walk around the
village of Boot in Eskdale.
Loes and I pick a low level walk on the map, but who knows
if we'll stick to our plans in this area she knows so well.
She used to live in Eskdale Green in a previous life and has
walked all these fells and valleys many times.
However there may be something along the way she doesn't remember
!
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Just after
Beckfoot station there's a turn off to Dalegarth War
Memorial. |
We park in the car park
next to the river and change footwear. |

Trough House Bridge near Dalegarth Hall, at
the start of the walk.
The deep pool in the river is a popular place
to swim in warmer weather.

We crossed through the adjacent gate, signposted
for the waterfalls, but we took the path to the left closer
to the main river.
The recent high winds of Storm Arwen seem to
have caused a lot of damage with numerous fallen trees, one
of which damaged the footbridge here.
The debris further up the valley towards Stanley
Gill Force has actually blocked the route so it is technically
'shut' until the path is cleared.
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A tall,
slender larch managed to survive whilst its neighbour
fell. |
The storm conditions
have also moved some of the old stepping stones. |

St Catherine's Church seen across today's quiet
waters of the River Esk.

We follow the riverside path . . . to the best
of our ability !

Beautifully clear waters below Gill Force show
every rock and stone that are normally hidden below the surface.
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- - - o o o - - -
We reach but don't cross the old railway bridge
as we're staying on this side of the River Esk.
The bridge was a vital part of the railway system
in the 1880's
as the iron mines behind boot were extended.
Iron ore had also been discovered on this side of
the river.
The branch line that served the bridge and the mine
was eventually abandoned too, but part of it now
forms the main line
which stops at the roadside in Dalegarth.
(It's historic trackbed is best seen by checking
out the O.S. map)
- - - o o o - - -
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The riverside path continues up the valley,
passing this peaceful small tarn below Gate Crag.

The chair was placed in memory
of a sixteen year old local girl, Claire Temple.
- - - o o o - - -
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The bridleway continues on as a good path . . . heading towards
Doctor Bridge.

The much renovated Low Birker Farm now seems more akin to
holiday accommodation than to farming,
especially the (rather nice) extension on the left of the
old farmhouse.

The path, which has slowly climbed above the valley floor,
now returns the low ground
where the open fields give us lovely views of the upper Esk
fells.

Doctor Bridge, strangely with no 'apostrophe s', stands over
the river in dramatic fashion.
Loes and the dogs pause for a long distance photo.
The bridge is only a short way from the main road and therefore
The Woolpack Inn . .
. it would be churlish not to call in for refreshment !
The landlady, Paddington, has a new retriever
pup who was delighted to meet our two. Dougal seems interested,
Dylan more aloof !
[ Ann and I first met Harry and Paddington at
what was then the Burnmoor Inn in the village of Boot when we
stayed there many years ago.]
She told us that both the Boot Inn and the Brook
House Inn in the village were both shut during January so our
plans for lunch were brought forward.
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The request for a swift half that we
had ordered was extended to a full pint,
and we also added one of their rather
nice Woolpack pizzas to the order.
Excellent !!

Looking around at the interesting signage within the
pub
as we relaxed over lunch.
- - - o o o - - -
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The path leading out from the back of the pub
seemed to head for Eel Tarn and not down the valley where we
wanted to go,
so we returned to the road and walked the short
distance to the Christcliff Farm turning.
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- - - o o o - - -

Two of the residents of the farm
called over to say hello as we walked up the track.
- - - o o o - - -
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The farm itself is easily by-passed by following
a rather obvious sign on the gate just before it.
We want to head back to Boot (in a rather round
about way) so through the gate we go.

More locals came across to see our small party
as we crossed the field, heading for Paddock Wray Farm.
These are lovely year old Herdwick sheep, looking
in prime condition in their identical coloured fleeces.
Ahead the path splits, left to the Hollins camp
site, or right up the fell heading for Gill Bank, our preferred
route.

The lighter green sheep field has a large mound
of cleared stone next to the wall, a bit like those found in
the upper Wasdale Valley.
This field in the foreground doesn't appear
to have been cleared and so reflects more the original nature
of the farming land.

The path climbs and turns till we find ourselves
looking up the Whillan Beck Valley.
Beyond the farm (seen next to the central tree)
is the high ground of Boat How, with Slightside and Scafell
forming the higher fells beyond.

This is Gill Bank Farm, as we look back after
passing through the farmyard.

Surprise, surprise . . . a building alongside
the river has a familiar look about it.
[ I guess that if we had studied the map more
closely we would have noticed the symbol for the weir.]
Boot is famous for it's watermill but this was
another, unnoticed old mill in the valley, sadly not in working
order.

The wheel structure is still in place but the
wooden timber have rotted away.
I wonder how much machinery is left inside ?

The path beyond changes to little more than
a rough track
as we head up to the old Peat Houses, normally
seen from the vantage point of the Boot to Burnmoor Tarn track.
[ Sorry about the photo quality . . . it was
a phone photo.]

On reaching the higher ground and the track,
another coffin route by the way, the long distance views return.
There in the distance is Green Crag, Harter
Fell and Hard Knott on the southern side of the Esk Valley.

We join the familiar Peat House route (on the
right of the map)
and walk right-to-left (as shown on the map)
down to the village of Boot.

The first building we come across is the old
mill, complete with a shiny new bench !
The mill has been restores after ceasing commercial
work as a grain mill in the 1930's.
It is normally open to the public so that you
can look around what is thought to be the oldest working mill
in England.
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It has two waterwheels which drove two separate sets
of internal mill wheels
so that the miller could grind different kinds of grain
without
having to alter the mill between different batches.

The sign said that when the mill closed for business
the old miller and his wife attached a generator to
the water wheel
to provide themselves with electric power.
- - - o o o - - -
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Hydro power has returned to the mill, in the
form of a third modern wheel, still utilising the water of the
Whillan Beck.
This now generates electrical power for the
grid and helps pay for the upkeep of the old building and the
staffing costs of being open.

The cottage opposite the mill has been busy
in their garden with new lawns and raised beds . . . very industrious.

Loes and I back-track slightly in order to take
the old railway path to Beckfoot.
This follows the original line of the railway
down this side of the valley. The old station buildings
can be seen just ahead.

Heads are turned to see what's happening . .
.

No . . . Loes hasn't fallen over, she's just
crouched down to read the oddly placed memorial plaque !
The path is known locally as "The Three
Foot Track" a reference to the wider gauge of the old mine
railway.
The steel bars in the bridge show how much wider
the track bed of the old mine railway was, compared to the present
narrow gauge system.

We walk the 'old track' past the houses at Dalegarth,
from where we draw close to the current rail line.

The three foot tack is now a driveway for the
cottages
and leads us down to Beckfoot where we finally
cross the narrow gauge line.

No trains today Dylan, they restart in February
!
The fine building behind is Stanley
House available for small self-catering groups or for larger
parties of up to 26 to stay.

A short walk brings us back up the valley road
to Trough House Bridge and the car park at the end of our walk
today.