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" Helen's Visit - Ennerdale Angler's Hotel " Date & start time: Tuesday 20th August, 2019. 3.30 pm start. Location of Start : Bowness Knott car park, Ennerdale, Cumbria, Uk. ( NY 109 154) Places visited : Bowness, Beckfoot, the Anglers Hotel site, and back Walk details : 3 miles, 150 feet of undulating ascent, 2 hours 15 mins. Highest point : The car park at Bowness Knott, 100ft above the lake. Walked with : Helen, Ann and our dogs, Dylan and Dougal. Weather : A beautiful summer afternoon after a poor morning. |
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After a damp morning we set off by car for a post-lunch walk in the next valley over from Loweswater. When we drive over the brow of the hill, the prospect of the Ennerdale view is always a good one. The panorama ahead spreads across from Great Borne on one side, to Pillar, Steeple, Haycock, Crag Fell and Grike on the other. Bowness Knott is the darker promontory on this side and Anglers Crag is the truncated spur on the opposite side. Time was too short to walk round the whole Ennerdale lake circuit so we aimed for Bowness Knott car park (just left of centre) and looked forward to a reasonable stroll by the lakeside in the lovely sunshine. Our starting point at Ennerdale's Bowness Knott car park.
Three fifths of the party, Ann, Helen and Dougal with a tennis ball, his favourite toy of the moment. Dylan and I are behind the camera. We cross the track from the car park and head straight down to the lake, fighting the summer bracken as we descend. This summer has been a good year for Rowans . . . the berries today are outstanding with their bright colours. There seem to be a lot of rowans trees on this little headland, the poorer soil and the maritime climate must suit them well. Close up of some more orange coloured berries. The answer is that rowan trees are "historically a pioneer species, thus are tolerant of a range of conditions. Although preferring well drained soil, they can tolerate some damp in most soil types."
It's August and the first of the heathers are also bursting into bloom.
This low level route around the base of Bowness Knott is a real delight. It undulates ... but not too much, it is rocky ... only in places and there is great variety all along its length. Where the track passes a gap in the trees there are views across to Anglers Crag and Crag Fell on the opposite side of the lake. In another gap there is a slight detour available, down onto a slab of rock by the water's edge. Gradually we round the corner of the small headland and the view opens up to show us the northern shore of Ennerdale Water that we intend to follow for a while. Before we do there's a beach to play on. The path is now bound by farm fields on one side and the lake on the other. This is Bowness Knott seen through the more mature trees on this section of the walk. Between two other trees are Great Borne and the summit of Herdus on the slightly lower, left hand end of the ridge. A full view of the fell is available to those that face the right direction !
Ennerdale Water is in fact a reservoir and the level was raised approximately six feet many years ago. Consequently there's a dwarf wall edging the track to prevent water intrusion into the farmland and also to prevent damage to the track itself. The headland with the rowan trees is a seen in the middle distance as we reach the site of the old hotel. Pillar, including Pillar Rock and the pointed Steeple Fell can be seem on the distant skyline. What remains of the old boat landing that belonged to the hotel.
In the 1960's there was a plan to further enlarge the reservoir and raise the level another couple of metres or so. At that time the old Anglers Hotel was feeling a bit dated, the people possibly wanted to retire and the Water Board probably offered a good price. Consequently the old hotel was sold and demolished and the site cleared ready for the impending raising of the lake. As it happened, the enlargement plan was rejected after considerable lobbying by locals and those that love the National Park. Had the Utility Company not moved so fast the hotel may have been saved to live another day . . . it certainly would have been a great place to stay. Just look at the view from the lounge windows ! . . . which would have included Anglers Crag on the other side of the lake. I walk out onto the rough stones and concrete, all that remains of the jetty . . . Helen stays on shore. Click here or on the photo above for a wider annotated panorama of the view back from the water's edge. Time to head back by taking the reverse of our outward route . . . in other words walking back around the crescent. Back on dry land . . . dry shod.
No daffodils today as we start our walk back.
Helen and Ann pause as they cross the Gill Beck footbridge.
Rowan, Whitebeam and Mountain Ash trees are all part of the genus Sorbus Rowan trees have lovely dense bunches of creamy white flowers in spring, followed by red, white, pink or yellow berries in autumn.
A good path leads from the lakeside past the cottage of 'Bowness' and back up to the car park up in the woodland. It has been a lovely walk, over the two hours due to the time we stopped at the old hotel grounds. The weather has been superb and the sunshine really allowed the rowans to shine . . . a walk to be remembered. - - - o o o - - -
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Technical note: Pictures taken with either Ann's Panasonic Lumix TZ60, or my Panasonic Lumix Gx8 Camera Resized in Photoshop, and built up on a Dreamweaver web builder. This site best viewed with . . . on-line train information as Helen is heading south tomorrow and flying home to Australia on Saturday. [ She's trying out the new Dreamliner 17 hour non-stop flight from London to Perth Australia . . . an exciting prospect ] Go to Top . . . © RmH . . . Email me here Previous walk - 19th Aug - Helen's Visit - Buttermere A previous time up here - Saturday 5th Sept 2009 Ennerdale Round the Lake Next walk - 26-26th August - Hedgehogs and Lake Walk
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